Date: Wednesday 13th October 2021
Official miles: 8 miles
Strava says: 10.51 miles
Elevation: 1,864 ft / 568 m
Strava says: 2,656 ft / 810 m
Weather: mostly sunny, occasional clag
Start: Pont Cwmyfedwen car park, Taf Fechan Forest
Route type: circular
Conditions: dry, clear paths, mixture of gravel and rocks
Website link: Breacon Beacons Horseshoe
Describe the route in three words: spectacular fun route
Brecon Beacons Horseshoe - Ladies FKT
I know many people who have climbed Pen y Fan and I really wanted to see the beauty of it for myself, I also wanted to bag myself another FKT and it just so happens that a lady was yet to record a FKT on this popular route, pretty incredible to think that I will be able to hold an FKT on such a famous route until the next lady comes along to log her time! My time certainly will be an easy one to beat, not just because I started in the wrong car park, lengthening my time by at least 20 minutes, but I also stopped a lot to look at the map and use my compass, not that I needed to, as the route is pretty clear, not signposted but the paths are clearly visible. The reason I wanted to stop so much was because I had spent the day before with a navigation guide and I wanted to use my new found skills. Together we had achieved a team FKT on the Black Mountain Circular.
I had an interesting drive to my start point, I’d accidentally mistyped the postcode on my sat nav so my 20 minute drive from where I was staying in Crickhowell was more like an hour and ten minutes! I stopped at the Owl's Grove Taf Fechan and realised that was not the right one, there are actually a lot more Taf Fechan car parks than I realised! I parked at Pont Cwmyfedwen and organised myself. I got my map out, read the route description and even though it was pretty clear which way I had to go (up the road) I used my compass as practice and to confirm which way to go. I started a steady jog up the hill and after some time passed the Neuadd car park to my left - opps, that was where I was supposed to have started!
I continued on and reached the old pump house. I did go back and forth a bit here as the route description mentioned a gate, I couldn’t see one, I could however see a clearly defined path to the left of the Lower Neuadd Reservoir but it meant stepping over a fence. A walker came along and that was the route he took so I did the same. I think maybe I was supposed to have gone on the higher ground around the pump house and come down the path from that way.
I came to a 5 bar gate and the steep climb to Craig Fan Ddu ridge rose before me. I ran up it until my legs slowed naturally to a walk and then I power walked the rest of the way. I passed two walkers and their dog and followed the path as it zig-zagged its way up. At the top a gentleman was sat drinking his coffee, we exchanged a few pleasantries and I stood admiring the views, disbelieving my luck with the weather. Every time I have run in Wales (the grand total of 4 days!) the weather has been bright and sunny.
I knew I needed to run along the Craig Fan Ddu ridge so set off, I had a quick look at the map but really, what I should have done (as I was practising my map reading), was estimated the distance that I would be running along the ridge for. As I ran along, my eyes greedily soaked up the views, I couldn’t help but constantly exclaim superlatives out loud, I took a video but really nothing can do justice to what I could see and feel. This was exhilarating!
The ridge line stretched ahead and bore to the right, rising upwards, I could see the clag coming in and knew that once I turned the corner to Bwlch Duwynt I would feel the wind. I very sensibly stopped and put my waterproof layer on, this was a good move, as soon as I turned along the ridge towards Corn Du I was exposed to the elements, my jacket keeping me warm and dry.
Corn Du steeply rose above me, the path split so that walkers have a few options, there was straight up and over, or you could skip past it and head straight for Pen y Fan. Of course I needed to select the up and over option and I excitedly started the climb, there was a section of square rocks which I scrambled up using my hands to help. I suddenly popped out on the top and ran to the Corn Du, 873 m summit, marked by a Bronze Age burial cairn. The cloud had come in obscuring all views but it didn’t dampen my feeling of elation to be way up here. I thought about what Brett had said the day before about navigating in bad weather. I got my map out and used my compass to orientate it. I looked at the route to Pen y Fan and took note of some of the five D’s, mainly, danger. I could see on the map from the contour lines that there was a steep drop which I couldn’t see due to the clag - a great example of using a map to avoid danger in poor visibility. I used the compass to make sure I was heading in the right direction and took a note of the distance, about a third of a kilometre. I set off into the saddle between Corn Du and Pen y Fan, feeling pretty pleased with myself that my map reading was going so well.
It wasn’t long before I reached the top of Pen y Fan, 886 m, an enormous grin on my face. I scampered up the cairn and took a selfie with the trig point. The views were non existent due to the clag but I chuckled to myself thinking this just meant that one day I would have to come back.
I took a look at the map and could see that Cribyn was the next climb, I had to first of all go down a stone pitched path… this was not my best moment. The stone was wet and I had this overwhelming fear of slipping on it so I tentatively tiptoed down it, holding my arms out like a ballerina, really not my finest decent and certainly very slow, I could hear a walker behind me, possibly even catching me up! Practice on different surfaces like this is great for me, I didn’t slip or fall, not even close, so next time I hope I am braver and attack it with speed and confidence. I came to a fork with a massive climb to the left, I knew that was the push to Cribyn. I took my poles out and packed my waterproof away, this was going to be hot work climbing up there! I skirted round an enormous puddle, it had been so dry, my feet were still dry and I didn't really want to soak them just because of one large puddle that could be avoided. I set off up Cribyn, 795 m which looked a little lonely, everyone seems to be taking the right hand path around it. Two ladies appeared out of the cloud on their way down so that made me feel comfortable knowing it was not just me going up there. As we passed each other, we paused for a brief chat, they were lost and were looking for the “car park with the toilet” they were heading in the right direction if they want the Storey Arms car park. I scaled the top and the ground levelled out, there was quite a lot of people here and the cloud was shifting. I asked a gentlemen to take my photo as I stood on the cairn.
I took a look at the map and could see I would be running along the ridge for around a kilometre or so before dropping on to the Gap Road. The curtain of cloud had cleared and the views had revealed themselves again. I passed a few dog walkers and ever another runner. The path was grassy, I can imagine in wet weather it would be pretty boggy along here.
I popped out onto the Gap Road and stopped to eat a bar as I’d been moving for around 2 hours now. The route description told me to head up the “fairly steep path to Fan y Brig”, it also mentioned a style, there was none to be seen so I double checked on the map, and used my compass just to be sure. I headed up Fan y Big, 717 m, fairly steep is most definitely true of this path! I used my poles for assistance. I came to the top and felt a little unsure of the way to go as for the first time I could not see a clearly defined path. I lay the map on the ground and used my compass to orientate it. It was clear which way I needed to head and the path very quickly came into view underfoot.
I followed the path around and knew from the route description that I would bear off it as it forked left and would need to make my way diagonally down to join the Gap Road. As the path curved to left, I couldn’t see a path down to the Gap Road but the Gap Road was clearly visible, I tentatively started and then soon found myself on a well trodden route, probably well trodden by sheep and Welsh Mountain ponies but there was the odd foot print too.
I joined the Gap Road and remembered from the map and the route description that it was plain sailing from here, around 2 km of easy running sloping down hill until I reached a gate close to the old pump house at the Lower Neuadd Reservoir. I retraced my steps along the tarmac road, past the Neuadd car park and then arrived at my car at Pont Cwmyfedwen.
That was it, I had done it! I had successfully avoided using any tech and had relied solely on my map, compass and route description, I had completed the Brecon Beacons Horseshoe and in doing so had set a very easy to beat FKT of 2h 59m 56s, I was delighted, and really rather proud of myself!
What’s in the snack pack?
2x bars (Nakd and Barebells)
Fruit and nut trail mix
Shell-less Skittles
Sugar coated stemmed ginger
Mints
2x 500ml bladders water - 1 plain, 1 with Hi 5
Gloves
Hat
Sunglasses
Innov8 Trailshell waterproof jacket
Long sleeved spare layer
Vasaline
Safety pins
Compeed, plasters, surgical tape, space socks
Harrier Helvellyn Carbon Z-Poles and quiver
Whistle
Survival blanket
Harvey’s Brecon Beacons East map
Silva Expedition 4 compass
What I wore: Saucony Ultra ST, Garmin Forerunner 35, buff, Sweaty Betty power leggings, tee shirt, OMM arm sleeves, Stance socks, sun cap, Salomon Adv Skin 12 running vest.
Lead up:
As I was classing this as a training run I had not done anything differently with my diet or go caffeine free, I had run the 35 mile Black Mountains Circular the day before, I had learned how to navigate with map and compass on this route and was really keen to test out my new found skills.
Morning preparations:
I had a lovely full veggie welsh breakfast where I was staying at The Dragon Inn in Crickhowell before I set off, I did do a few stretches but not for too long.
Summary
Absolutely delighted with how the day went as I used my map a lot and was able to follow where I was at all times and see where I needed to go - this was the purpose of the run, to consolidate my nav skills. This is a really beautiful route that I hope I get the chance to do again, I know I can do it much quicker next time (I’ll park in the correct car park and won’t need to stop to look at the map and route description) but I’m also pleased that the FKT I have set is so slow as it means it’s a really achievable time for many women to beat, records are made to be broken after all!
Lessons learned
Preparation is key! I really should have paid more attention to the starting location, by putting the wrong post code into the sat nav in the morning I extended my drive there by quite a lot, I also wasn’t sure as to which car park I was supposed to park in, I had been so keen on running the correct route, I had only looked at the run route on the map, I really should have familiarised myself with the route on the map to get there and check the car parking situation more thoroughly.
Don't forget the 5 D's... early on in the route I had got carried away and not considered the distance I had to run along the Craig Fan Ddu ridge, in this instance it wasn't an issue but I think I should form good habits from the off. I know for next time.
Results
New ladies FKT
Strava elapsed time: 2h 59m 56s
Strava moving time: 2h 26m 56s
Going back to improve my time
Date: Wednesday 19th January 2022
Official miles: 8 miles
Strava says: 8.47 miles
Elevation: 1,884 ft / 568 m
Weather: claggy, windy and chilly
Start: Neuadd car park, Taf Fechan Forest
Route type: circular
Conditions: wet and muddy
On 19th January 2022 I decided to head back to the Beacons to improve upon my time. I made sure I parked at the correct car park this time, Neuadd car park, this saved me a bit of milage!
On this occasion I did the shorter route that is on the FKT website rather than the original route which was published on the National Trust website (it has now been updated omitting Fan y Big). This meant I took in Twyn Mwyalchod and omitted Fan y Big. Unsurprisingly, I was much faster. Visibility was not great, and I must say, I got quite chilly up on the Craig Fan Ddu ridge. I also managed to faceplant in front of two hikers, luckily for me, there was plenty of mud covering this very rocky ridgeline so I did not hurt myself at all, just my pride! I had run a Gwynne-Harris Round route recce the day before so I'll just blame it on my legs being a bit tired!
When I got to Corn Du, I for some reason thought it was Pen Y Fan. A couple asked me if I knew where Pen Y Fan was, "This is it! You've made it!" They were delighted, but they wondered where the Pen y Fan sign was. I did too, so I drew the most obvious (not) conclusion, that someone must have stolen it. As I ran away from them muttering about how disgraceful people were, I started thinking how tough it would be to carry the heavy stone sign all the way back down, and how others must have surely noticed? I then realised that this was actually Cribyn, and Pen y Fan was next. Oh my word did I laugh and laugh and laugh! That poor couple had come all this way only to take their selfie on top of the wrong mountain and to then return to tell all their family and friends that the sign had been stolen! As funny as it was, I did feel terrible!
Photos: Twyn Mwyalchod, Corn Du, Pen y Fan and Cribyn. The ridgeline leading down to The Gap.
Twyn Mwyalchod, 644 m is easy enough to locate, once at the top of the first climb up to Craig Fan Ddu ridge and leaving Lower Neuadd Reservoir behind, you make a left and follow the footpath to the trig point. Make a right turn at the trig point and follow the ridgeline to continue towards Corn Du.
Funnily enough, the moment I reached the car, the weather improved enormously and I expect the views would have been pretty good up top!
Results
New ladies FKT 2h 09m 20s
