Date: Tuesday 18th January 2022
Strava says: 20.28 miles
Elevation: 5,266 ft / 1,605 m
Weather: Cool, cloudy and foggy in places
Start: Talybont Reservoir (nearest postcode LD3 7YS then follow signs)
Route type: Circular
Conditions: cool, overcast, foggy, not too wet underfoot
Website link: Gwynne-Harris Round
Describe the route in three words: map reading essential
Recce Report - Gwynne-Harris Round
I discovered this route on the FKT website when looking for routes to do around Crickhowell (my favourite place to stay!) and quickly became obsessed with this round summiting 32 peaks in the Beacons! I downloaded the film and arranged a Zoom call with the round creator, Ed Gwynne-Harris who talked me through various points of the route. I got it marked on my map and worked out a way to split it into three recces, I pencilled in some dates in the diary and as the January date drew nearer I nervously kept an eye on the weather, I was not going to attempt the route I planned if the weather was dire, not because I’m a fair weather runner, but because I’m still very inexperienced at mountain running and map reading and the chances of me finding a run buddy was slim so I wanted to remain as safe as possible. I was able to hire a SPOT tracker from the super helpful Richard at Track Trail which meant my husband Ky and my friend fellow ultra nutter Kev would be able to track me regardless of phone signal. It also meant if the worst were to happen, I could deploy the emergency SOS button and emergency services would be able to locate me.
In planning the route, I studied the map endlessly. I also worked out that there were 6 locations where I could leave the mountains and head back to the start point. I needed to know that if I was slower than expected or struggling with the terrain, there would be an escape route for me. Although I had packed my head torch, this was for emergency use only and I had absolutely no intention of running in the dark. It just would not be sensible.
The designated day dawned, I’d run the Abergavenny 3 Peaks the day before and had started around 9.30am, I knew that today I’d need to start earlier to make the most of the daylight. I set off around 8.20am and started my first ascent of the day. The route to Tor y Foel is pretty easy to follow, a well trodden path which part way along I realised I had forgotten my wrap and Hula Hoops, so annoyed with myself but I knew I still had enough food with me. After emerging from the path you get to a more open grassy area. The mountain is right in front of your face so it’s easy enough to pick your own route and keep seeing other people’s footprints too. It took longer than I thought to summit Tor y Foel, it is indeed a very generous mountain which just keeps on giving - false summits that is! The fog had come in and I knew that shortly I’d be more exposed so I stopped to put my jacket on, great choice as a few more steps and the wind really would have brought my body temperature down. I summited Tor y Foel, 551 m around 8.50am, not too bad.
As I left for Mynydd Llangynidr I could see Talybont Reservoir in the distance and marvelled at it’s beauty and just how far I seemed to have come already. I knew Mynydd Llangynidr was some distance away and made sure I enjoyed the route. I came to a lane and crossed over, I had to head up a track which delivered me to someone’s farm house. There was a style and a clear path heading up. I rested my poles on the style and took my jacket off. I decided this would be a good place to get a bearing on my compass too as I knew exactly where I was. Just as well, as the clearly marked track is a fairly winding one and I realised I could cut a few corners by heading straight up!
I eventually came to a more open area and checked my compass again. It’s fun this navigation stuff! I reached a Welsh ladder (not sure what they are really called!) and took a selfie for Kev, we saw a lot of them on our Dragon’s Back recce.
I paused to admire where I had come from and then cracked on.
I came to a really nice area of rocks and a tree, it looked like an ancient building, were the weather sunnier I’d probably have sat down to admire the scenery but I did not want to get cold! This prompted me to don my jacket again as the fog was back and I’d be more exposed on the top. I reached the second summit of Mynydd Llangynidr 557 m in less than 2 hours from starting (10.19am), I was pleased with that.
Next stop was Cefn yr Ystrad, from my map I could see that I had to descend down onto the Trefil Road and run along it a little way. It wasn’t long before I saw the road in the distance and I started to make my descent.
There were wild ponies here, one of which was very friendly. I had stopped to look at them and take photos, this one little guy kept edging closer and closer to me until I reached out and gently touched his nose. I could have stayed ages making friends and chatting with him but thought that was not such a good idea!
Running solo in this landscape is a funny thing. I adore that there is no other soul in site, I felt like I had the mountains to myself, but there must be an underlying feeling of concern because I have to confess, every time I see a road, a house, a sign of civilisation… my heart lifts, as I know I’m not truly alone.
I came off Trefil Road and started heading upwards. This area is used for quarries and I passed along the top of one, it made for dramatic scenery.
The fog had come in and I was using my compass, I’d find an object (tuft of extra large grass for example) run to that then check my compass again. This made for a great way to get me through the foggy area and keep me on the right track.
I reached a pile of rocks and a cross, thinking this was the summit I took a selfie. The fog lifted momentarily and revealed the actual trig point.
I lumbered over to it and sat on it, using the opportunity to send a photo to my husband and set my compass again. 11.17am Cefn yr Ystrad, 619 m. I knew from the map I needed to keep my wits about me as I’d be passing through the top of a quarry, sheer drops either side of me. Luckily, when I came to the quarry, it had been fenced off with lots of danger signs so it was easy to navigate through. I ran a little way along a proper track, I really needed to make the most of the runnable sections as I really felt like I had been walking a lot.
The track didn’t last and it was time to follow a path that was clearly visible due to the black mud churned up by I assume a farmer’s vehicle. This was very runnable though, I only had to pause here and there to jump over the odd puddle (I really will preserve my feet if I can!) I was keeping an eye on the map and the area to my left, the footpath marked on the map was essentially an out and back to take out some of the steepness. Then pretty much where I had marked on my map a potential shortcut, there was a very definite path down which others had taken! I couldn’t believe my luck as this was going to cut out about 2km. I did study the map a while here just to be sure but then thought, “What the heck!” and went for it! Down and down I went, I could see the river where I was heading for, I knew there was a crossing down there so the river wasn’t a worry. But then… a fence. Oh dear. I could see the lovely path on the other side that I was supposed to be on but didn’t fancy my chances getting over the fence. I applied a bit of logic, the path I had come down was very well trodden, by lots of people, just follow their footsteps and they’ll lead me to a place to get over. I saw the bridge crossing that I needed, and just a bit further down saw the fence covered in bracken, so much it had pushed it to a slant and covered all the barbed wire. Hurrah! This was my out! I smugly stepped over, crossed the bridge and ran up the track to the road. This road is part of the Taff Trail and leads to Talybont Reservoir.
I had something to eat and spotted the turning that would lead me eventually to Allt Lwyd, I chuckled to myself as the sign indicated that horses and carriages could go up this track… only if they were pulled by flying horses! The path was a pretty nice one but it wasn’t to last as I had to head up Allt Lwyd, I relied on the gpx file here as on the map there is no footpath. Oh dear. This was horrible. I followed the gpx but I was in some serious undergrowth. It was really slow go. I could see I did not have to wade through it too far, around 0.15 mile but it took forever. I couldn’t pick out a better way so just soldiered on.
In the end, I was closing my eyes and using my head to break a path through the twigs and trees.
I finally could see a fence line but those last 5 metres or so were the worst. I reached the fence line. Now what? It was barbed wire and I couldn’t see a way over anywhere. I checked my compass. I checked my gpx. Straight up! So, I took a risk, but I really wasn’t sure on the alternative, I very carefully and successfully climbed over the fence. Phew. Now to keep heading up. The thing in front of me was a monster! I pushed on, this Allt Lwyd was to be the worst section of the route, my sense of humour had not deserted me though and I kept laughing to myself at how ridiculous this was. I swear the sheep were laughing at me! I ended up taking 10 steps at a time, pausing, then taking 10 more. The top did not get any closer. But then I looked behind and saw just how far I had come. Eventually the gradient eased off and I checked my compass. It faithfully pointed me towards the summit. I got to the Allt Lwyd, 653 m trig point at 1pm and was bitterly disappointed.
On reflection, I think it is such a nasty mountain that no one can be bothered to put a decent trig point there. I think the first person to go up marked it with three stones they found lying around and thought, “That’ll do, no one else will want to come up here.”
I did another recce of Allt Lwyd 4 months later, you can see a detailed description with helpful photos at the end of my article Gwynne-Harris Round Final 3 Summits where you will see I found a much better route up!
It had taken me 1 hour and 45 minutes between the last two summits so I was really keen to get moving now. But alas, the terrain was not going to allow me to. I had a stretch of ankle turning tussocks which kept grabbing my poles, I’d argue the pole out of the selfish tussock and hope that I wasn’t going to end up snapping one, my poles do get a beating but they are still in one piece! I reached a gate, hurrah, a runnable bit! I ran, but not for too long as there was another gate and then a deceptively steep downhill section. I found myself sat on the ground, so paused to admire the view and took a photo.
I came to the top of a hill, it was grassy, nothing significant about it, and then realised this was Allt Forgan, 513 m at 1.39pm.
I was keeping an eye on the time now as I knew I needed to make a decision. I was near one of my exit points. I decided to make my way down to the river and then make a plan. The route down to the Caerfanell River was another slow route, it was very scenic and very enjoyable. I was able to run at first but then the tufts got bigger and the gradient steeper so I switched to a Lizzie lumber which I feel is quicker than a walk but safer than a run on technical sections. I came to a stile and sat on it.
I studied the map and looked at the time, it was almost 2pm. I’d been on the move for coming up to 6 hours. I had 2.5 hours of daylight remaining. I didn’t feel tired, I think because I had walked so much, but I was deeply aware of my slow progress and I felt the best and safest thing to do was to take the exit route. I went a little way up the river first as I’d seen a waterfall from afar and was hoping I could grab a picture but after a few minutes turned back. I followed the path along the river and knew there’d be a crossing along the way. Indeed a crossing came but it was’t quite how the map depicted it so I studied the map some more and decided to carry on. Sure enough, a proper bridge came into sight, I crossed over admiring the waterfall and started running down the path to lead me to the Blaen y Glyn car park.
A group of children and their teachers were walking towards me, I stopped to show the leader my map and point where I thought I was (I couldn’t help myself but get confirmation!) he reassured me I was in the right place and asked me how far I had run, 16 miles I replied. He was impressed, as were the kids. He exclaimed how fresh I looked, but all I could think was, “I cannot believe it has taken me 6 hours to run 16 miles!”
The car park soon came into sight. 2.32pm and I turned left down the road, the Taff Trail. I had a fair stretch along here but at least I could run! I ran and ran and ran and passed the horse and carriage sign leading to Allt Lwyd, I laughed, I’m not doing that again! The reservoir came into view and I told myself not to get excited, it’s a big old reservoir. Eventually I could see the dam and made the turn towards my car. I was grinning insanely as I passed a couple going for a walk, they must have thought I was a bit mad. I could see people up the hill on the way to Tor y Foel, that’s the footpath I was on this morning! I reached the car and delved into my boot for my wrap, Hula Hoops and can of Coke… bliss!
What’s in the snack pack?
3x bars
Malt loaf
50g fudge
Raisins
Sugar coated stemmed ginger
Mints
2x 500ml bladders water - 1 plain, 1 with Hi 5
Extra bladder with 2 litres
Gloves
Salomon Bonatti waterproof over mittens
Sunglasses
Inov 8 Trailshell waterproof jacket
Long sleeved spare layer (Merino)
Vasaline
Spare hair band
Safety pins
Compeed, plasters, surgical tape, spare socks
Harrier Helvellyn Carbon Z-Poles and quiver
Silva Head torch (mandatory but didn’t need)
Whistle
Survival bag
OMM Halo waterproof trousers
Tissues, wet wipes, face mask
Bank card and phone
SPOT Tracker hired from Track Trail
(Was supposed to have a wrap & Hula Hoops but left them in the car!)
What I wore: Saucony Ultra ST, Stance socks, Garmin Fenix 6 Pro Sapphire, buff, Sweaty Betty power leggings, Montane long sleeved top, Dirty Girl gaiters, Salomon Adv Skin 12 running vest.
Lead up: I'd had a big break from training due to recovery from Hardwolds, Christmas and work commitments. The week prior I ran the Blackwater Valley path, it was 24 flat miles including the run to the start point which reminded me that I can do longer runs!
Morning preparations: I wanted to start as close to first light as possible so very sensibly did not wait for the 8am breakfast at the Dragon Inn, they kindly left bread and condiments out for me so I could have 3 slices of toast and 2 cups of tea. I did a little bit of stretching too.
Summary: A real treat of a day out, developing my navigation skills, my confidence to make decisions on my own and my mental resilience. I did not have a time in mind, but I clearly thought I would cover the ground quicker than I did as I had to use an exit route and miss out Craig y Fan Ddu, Fan Y Big, Waun Rydd and Twyn Du which would have been a further 8 - 10 miles if my map calculations are correct. I think that section of the route I would have moved quicker as I don't think the summits are quite as heavy going.
Lessons learned
planning exit routes is a great idea!
my navigation skills have most definitely improved
I kept a cool head when I could have panicked a few times... forgetting my lunch, being the wrong side of the fence, wading through undergrowth and dealing with fog. I dealt with each situation calmly and found a solution.
providing route details to emergency contacts is always a great idea, hiring the tracker gave me peace of mind for this remote route.
Results
Elapsed time: 6h 52m 34s
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