Date: 21st - 22nd May 2022
Official miles: 75 miles
Strava says: 75.57 miles
Elevation: 21,010 ft ft / 6,404 m
Weather: Clear
Start: Talybont Reservoir
Route type: circular
Conditions: Perfect!
Website link: Gwynne-Harris Round
Describe the route in three words: I did it!
Gwynne - Harris Round Ladies Fastest Known Time
Through my recces I have written very detailed descriptions* about each section of this 32 summit route in the Brecon Beacons so I thought I’d change it up a bit and write more about what it takes to do it. It is only after I have completed this phenomenal challenge that I realise just how much went into getting to the start line.
*links to each route section can be found at the bottom of this article.
Sacrifice
Family time, caffeine, alcohol, food, money… They didn’t really feel like sacrifices at the time (ok, maybe just a little when I stood staring forlornly at my two chocolate Easter eggs knowing that they would just have to remain unopened) but in order to get to Talybont I went caffeine and alcohol free two weeks before. But not just then, my big warm up was 3 weeks prior at the Blacks to the Beacons 50 so I went caffeine and alcohol free two weeks before that too! I only drink 3 - 4 cups of tea by my word, when I come off the caffeine I get major withdrawal symptoms for around a week. Headaches, lethargy, lack of motivation and feeling glum - it's not pleasant. Then there was the diet, I have been aware of everything I have consumed for months now, I wanted to feed my body well, look after it as best I could, nourish it and keep it strong and healthy, this meant I have made sure I have made the right food choices. I also turned off all screens an hour and a half before bedtime to ensure better quality sleep a week before Blacks to the Beacons 50 and the Gwynne-Harris Round. I went on multiple trips to Wales to recce the route, each time needing to stay in a hotel, there’s the price of fuel, food, sports massage, mindset coaching and gps tracker hire each time I went on a recce. In doing these trips, this was time away from home, my husband and my girls (my adorable rescue hens!).
But this leads me to the next point, in order to make these sacrifices, I needed determination.
Determination
You could argue that a sacrifice isn’t really a sacrifice though when it’s easy, and most of the time, it was easy. What made it easy was my determination to succeed. I found out about the Gwynne-Harris Round back in October 2021 and I’ve thought of little else since. When I did the very first recce, it was hard. I mean, really, really hard. I got real with myself and realised that the chances of me being able to do the whole route would be small. I thought that it would take me around 40 hours based on how long it took me to do that first recce. I couldn’t put a crew through that so I decided I’d probably end up reccing the whole route, then put this idea to bed. But, I was determined. I was determined to complete those recces. A stomach bug nearly derailed me, but I found the time and made up for those missed training days.
And once I’d done the recces, I did think, well it is now or never, better to try and fail then just not try at all.
Navigation
Rewind 8 months, I could’t read a map and I certainly couldn’t use a compass. I spent the day with Brett in the Black Mountains learning these skills and techniques and practiced at every opportunity. I improved my nav skills through trial and error on the recces, it really did pay off on the day, I was able to make confident direction choices in now familiar territory.
Organisation and planning
I realise that a joy of scavenger hunting is an important trait of being an ultra runner. As this is a self organised, self run event, I had to think of everything. The week leading up to the Round was spent compiling lists and collecting items from all around the house. My crew box was a treasure trove of all the things I might possibly need, from the obvious food and water to the Dettol, kitchen towel, toilet roll and hand soap to make my portaloo experience at Pont ar Daf as pleasant as possible (what a treat to use a lovely clean toilet rather than a bush!) But of course it wasn’t just my crew box that needed planning, it was the training schedule, the recces, the food shopping and meal planning, the finding people willing to crew and briefing them, finding a suitable base to stay (The Chartist Cottage, Trefil), working with Ed to get the route on the map and query sections of it with him and scheduling the time to do get it all done around life and work!
Luck
Luck plays a huge role. From the weather to remaining injury free and not catching an illness, to the surprisingly important detail of doing a pre-race bowel movement to not falling over and spraining an ankle on the Round itself.
Luck is certainly something you need in bucketloads as it can make or break you. There was no guarantee that the weekend I picked in May was going to be a good weather weekend, but as it happened, it was. April and May really are the sweet spot for premier rounds, due to longer daylight hours and higher chances of pleasant weather. My weekend was perfect. Not cold, not hot, but just right. When the inevitable mountain fog came, it came when I was with Brett and Jamie. By the way, Brett is a professional mountain guide (and is even on the reserve list for Mountain Rescue), I was in very safe and capable hands indeed.
I did fall over twice, both times before Checkpoint 1, but I had soft bracken landings and didn’t hurt myself at all.
I started at 4.30am which meant my alarm was set at 3pm, sorry to be crude, but if I couldn’t perform on the toilet, this would certainly have repercussions later on resulting in stomach cramps which could easily lead to a DNF. But as it happened, I was able to go, and again at Pont ar Daf, what a relief!
A great example of luck is when I missed the short cut before Checkpoint 1 at Abercynafon, the area was so overgrown I couldn't see it at all and this added around 10 minutes of time. As I popped onto the road, Darren arrived, he'd been delayed due to road closures. If I had got there 10 minutes earlier, there would have been no Darren and I would have had to carry on without the checkpoint.
Passion
If you watch the film by Beaconflix on the Gwynne-Harris Round, Ed says that you have to really want to do it. I really wanted to do this. I had a burning passion to do this Round. I have never looked forward to a run as much as this one. I could not wait to get started. I don’t recall feeling nervous, but I do recall being very, very excited. So excited in fact, I barely slept the night before. I went to bed at around 9pm, and just lay there until I gave up at around 2.15am and read my book for a bit. I had all the pieces of the jigsaw, I just needed to put them together, and I could not wait to do so!
People
This may well have been a solo run, but it was a team event. I needed crew and there was no way I could have completed the challenge without them.
Darren - my man on the ground. Darren met me at each checkpoint and really took care of me. He ensured I had everything from the obvious food and water, to wearing suncream and charging my watch. It was lightly raining at Storey Arms so he set my chair up with my big warm coat inside a bus shelter, handing me tea and Pot Noodle, passing me dry socks and shoes to change into. Darren updated my friends on Facebook with my progress and he texted my husband to keep him up to speed.
Brett & Jamie - Brett and his friend Jamie joined me at Cray Reservoir through to the end. Having had a scare on Bannau Sir Gaer where I suddenly got cold, the light started to fade and I was taking really bad lines. Without them, I could not have continued, it just would not have been safe for me to be on my own in the dark and fog. Brett and Jamie were incredible, they would rotate one in front and one behind, always chatting with me (I’d just like to mention that I came with a warning… when Darren met them at the checkpoint before I came in, he told them I talked a lot!). Brett had brought a hand torch along, shining extra light onto the ground when it got more technical. They opened and closed all the gates, they offered to carry kit for me (I declined, I wanted to be responsible for my own things), they reminded me to eat and drink, they brought sweets along that they knew I liked, they took photos at each summit, they kept telling me I had a great pace, I looked strong and I was moving well (you really do need to hear this!) and they even got the Hula Hoops out of my pack and opened them for me towards the end! Brett and Jamie were legends, they really did take great care of me.
Hannah - co owner with Sarah at the boot camp I go to, Hannah not only trains me but she did weekly sports massage for me leading up to the Round, making sure I was niggle free and helping me stay clear of injury.
Sarah - co owner with Hannah at the boot camp I go to, Sarah has literally been there from day one of my fitness journey and I have an enormous amount of respect for her and she inspires me to try my best.
Lucy - a mindset coaching session with Lucy before any big event is a part of my race preparations.
Tariq and Debbie - each ran a recce with me, being able to share the beauty of the Beacons with running buddies who'd never run there before was a real treat, and I have to confess, I'd lost a little motivation after getting derailed by a stomach upset on a previous trip so it was really reassuring to go with someone on the following two recces.
Ky - my husband, he supports me from home, holding the fort with our many rescue hens, encouraging me and being my biggest cheerleader, putting up with the early bedtimes, joining me in the screen switch off and not once complaining about me spending so much time away from home.
Blaze members - each and every one of them has their own story, their own journey and I find them an inspiration.
What’s in the snack pack?
Flapjacks
Bar
Shell-less Skittles
Dried fruit and nut mix
Caffeine gel
Sugar coated stemmed ginger
Mints
2x 500ml bladders water - with SiS
1 litre extra water with SiS
Gloves
Hat
Inov 8 Trailshell waterproof jacket
Long sleeved spare layer
Vasaline
Spare hair band
Safety pins
Compeed, plasters, surgical tape, spare socks
Whistle
Survival blanket
OMM Halo waterproof trousers
Salomon Bonatti waterproof over mittens
Harrier Helvellyn Carbon Z-Poles and quiver
Fully charged mobile phone
Harvey’s maps (Breacon Beacons East and Brecon Beacons West)
Silva Expedition 4 compass
SPOT Tracker hired from Track Trail
What I wore: Saucony Ultra ST, Garmin Fenix 6 Sapphire, buff, Sweaty Betty power leggings, Stance socks, Ronhill merino long sleeved top, Dirty Girl gaiters, Salomon Adv Skin 12 running vest, sun cap, Silva head torch.
Crew box
So many items I did not need/use but so comforting to know I had it all if needs be!
Summary
My video diary and photos of each summit sum this challenge up rather well I think!
Memorable moments
The unforgettable sunrise on Tor y Foel
I reached a farm at around 5.30am and a cockerel crowed, I immediately thought of our oldest hen Brienne, and how today was her 5 year henniversary, I said out loud, "Happy henniversary Brienne!"
The bluebells were so stunning, such a gorgeous scent.
Watching the frisky wild ponies buck and frolic at Trevil quarries.
Allt Lwyd was a great climb (even when I sandwiched a branch in between my feet and face planted in the braken) as I'd found the better line on the second recce of it, it turned from nemesis to friend (I did give the pile of stones at the summit a cuddle!)
I could see a wondrous large bird in the distance, as I got nearer I realised it was pigeon. But it was particularly beautiful, and it was big, then I saw it had leg rings, I think it may have flown off course as it looked a bit bewildered.
The Quorn Cottage Pie, first cup of caffeinated tea in weeks and full fat Coke at Checkpoint 3 - Brecon Beacons Camping and Caravan Park felt blissful - best meal ever!
I took a really bad line at Garreg Las with the sun in my eyes the whole time making it super hard, I was essentially rock climbing with limited visibility! I rewarded myself with a small sit down and some Hula Hoops at the top.
The moment I switched on my head torch, coming down towards Checkpoint 4, seeing the lights of Darren's car and Brett's van, calling "Whoop whoop!" and getting a "Whoop whoop!" right back at me, what a feeling!
Brett and Jamie joined me at Checkpoint 4 - Fan Gyhirych (Cray Reservoir) so it ended up being a great climb even though it's one of the toughest, I was so excited to see them - we chatted the whole way up so it made it enjoyable and I barely noticed the gradient! Distraction is a wonderful thing.
I waded through a calf deep bog after the Fan Nedd descent and asked Brett and Jamie how their feet were, they were dry, they had found the plank!
Getting to Y Gyrn was a doddle, but coming off was a pain as the fog really came in thick and it was very disorientating. Really windy too. I realised once again that if Brett and Jamie had not joined me on the night section, I would have had to quit due to safety. I've run through the night before and I am familiar with the dark, but throw a mountain and some fog in, it's much harder.
Being humbled by the story of Tommy Jones at the Tommy Jones memorial.
I earned my stripes and did my first wild poo on the Fan y Big climb!
When Jamie opened my Hula Hoops for me - swoon, what a hero!
The fog lifting and seeing Talybont as we came down the final descent and then starting to get a bit emotional.
I got into the car to drive home and cried like a baby, I have never cried happy tears quite like that before.
Results
Ladies FKT
Strava time: 26 hr 17 m 17 s
Strava route: https://www.strava.com/activities/7182206972
Because why wouldn't you do a celebration burpee after 75 miles and all that elevation?!
“Hopefully as it becomes more and more widely known, it is ultimately to bring people to the Beacons, we touch on it being under-appreciated and what’s good about this is it goes to the corners that you wouldn’t necessarily walk to.” - Ed Gwynne- Harris
Links to detailed descriptions of the route:
The western end of the Gwynne-Harris Round taking in the 8 summits of Disgwylfa, Garreg Las, Carreg yr Ogof, Bannau Sir Gaer (Picws Du), Fan Foel, Fan Brycheiniog, Fan Hir & Cefn Cul.
The final 3 summits of Craig y Fan Ddu, Fan y Big, Waun Rydd and Twyn Du plus a revisit to find a better route for Allt Lywd
The Brecon Beacons Horseshoe which covers the 6 summits of Craig y Fan Ddu, Twyn Mwyalchod, Craig Gwaun Taf [Duwynt], Corn Du, Pen y Fan & Cribyn.
The only summit I was unable to recce was Y Gyrn.
Mountains/hills in order of appearance & my arrival time (if known):
Start - 4.30am
Tor y Foel - 4.58am
Mynydd Llangynidr - 6.16am
Cefn yr Ystrad - 7.04am
Checkpoint 1- 8.04am
Allt Lwyd - 8.49am
Allt Forgan - 9.24am
Craig y Fan Ddu - 10.02am
Twyn Mwyalchod - 10.51am
Craig Gwaun Taf [Duwynt] - 11.30am
Checkpoint 2 - 11.50am
Bryn Du - 12.31pm
Fan Fawr - 12.50pm
Fan Dringarth - 12.56pm
Fan Llia - 1.56pm
Carreg Cadno - 3.22pm
Checkpoint 3 - 4.36pm
Disgwylfa - 5.36pm
Garreg Las - 6.58pm
Carreg yr Ogof - 7.15pm
Bannau Sir Gaer (Picws Du) - 7.59pm
Fan Foel - 8.17pm
Fan Brycheiniog - 8.26pm
Fan Hir - 8.40pm
Cefn Cul (Waun Leuci) - 9.39pm
Checkpoint 4 - 10.02pm
Fan Gyhirych - 10.56pm
Fan Nedd - 11.45pm
Fan Frynych - 1.24am
Rhos Dringarth (Craig Cerrig-gleisiad) - 1.02am
Checkpoint 5 - 2.16am
Y Gyrn - 3.07am
Corn Du
Pen y Fan
Cribyn
Fan Y Big
Waun Rydd
Twyn Du
Finish - 6.48am